Like climbing a small mountain, your mobile home steps can feel risky until they’re done right. You’ll measure the total rise, pick a riser height between 7 and 7.75 inches, and divide to get an even number of risers so each step feels steady. Choose pressure treated lumber and corrosion resistant fasteners, lay out stringers with 10 to 11 inch treads, cut and test fit, then fit treads, anti slip surfaces, a landing, and a handrail in case you have four or more risers.
Measure Rise and Calculate Number of Risers
As soon as you’re ready to add safe, comfortable steps to your mobile home, start upon measuring the total rise from the finished ground up to the top of the threshold in inches, and write that number down so you don’t lose it; this single measurement guides every decision that follows.
You’ll feel part of a careful process whenever you record the rise measurement and keep it handy. Next divide that number through a comfortable riser height between 7.0 and 7.75 inches, round to the nearest whole number, and you’ve got the number of risers. Then recalculate actual riser height through dividing the total rise by that integer. Adjust until each step is equal and the riser spacing stays in the 7 to 7.75 inch range.
Set Target Riser Height and Tread Depth
Now that you’ve calculated the number of risers, choose a target riser height between 7 and 7.75 inches so every step feels even and safe.
Set tread depth to 10 to 11 inches with a 3/4 to 1 inch nosing for comfortable footing, and use the stair rule 2 risers plus 1 tread equals about 24 to 25 inches to check ergonomics.
In the event that rule would force a tread under 10 inches, increase the tread depth initially and add a landing whenever you have multiple runs so transitions stay consistent and code compliant.
Choose Riser Height
Start measuring from the ground up to the threshold so you know the total rise you need to cover, then divide that number using a target riser height of about 7 to 7.75 inches to get an initial step count.
You’ll see how riser ergonomics and user comfort tie together.
Aim for identical risers so each step feels the same and reduces trip risk.
In case your division doesn’t give a whole number, adjust every riser slightly but keep them within 7 to 7.75 inches.
Rebalancing all risers keeps the run natural and steady.
Also check local code limits and plan to re-measure after framing before you cut stringers.
That way you and your neighbors can feel safe and confident using the steps.
Set Tread Depth
When you set tread depth, consider about how each step will feel under your foot and how the risers and treads work together to make walking safe and natural. You’ll measure total rise, divide against a target riser of 7 to 7.75 inches, and round so all risers match. Then pick tread depth for an ergonomic layout that supports an ideal spacing between steps. Reflect on drainage and slip resistance for outside treads.
- Use 10 to 11 inch tread depth with 3/4 to 1 inch nosing for comfortable foot placement
- Keep every riser identical; small differences increase trip risk
- Add slight slope for drainage about 1:48 on exterior treads
- Provide top landing whenever space or code requires, at least 36 inches deep
Check Stair Rule
You’ve already picked a sensible tread depth and matched your risers, so the next step is to check the stair rule to make sure walking feels natural and safe.
Measure total rise up to the door threshold and divide by a target riser of 7 to 7.75 inches. Adjust so you get a whole number of risers and make every riser the same height.
Aim for 10 to 11 inch tread depths with a 3/4 to 1 inch nosing for consistent user comfort.
Use the stair rule 2 × riser + tread ≈ 24 to 25 inches to test stair ergonomics. Recalculate should it be necessary to stay within recommended ranges.
Keep riser variation under 3/16 inch and include a 36 inch landing whenever required.
Choose Weather-Resistant Materials and Fasteners
Whenever you build or replace mobile home steps, pick materials that stand up to weather so your stairs stay safe longer.
Use pressure treated lumber or cedar for framing and composite or textured treads, and fasten everything with hot dip galvanized or stainless steel hardware to stop rust.
Also protect cut ends with exterior sealer and lift wood off soil with metal post bases so moisture doesn’t shorten the life of the steps.
Best Material Choices
Pick materials that stand up to weather and make maintenance simple, because the right choices keep your steps safe and lasting. You want options that protect your home and save time, and you belong with others who care for durable, welcoming spaces.
- Use pressure-treated lumber for stringers and framing to resist rot, and choose PT, cedar, or composite decking for treads depending on upkeep needs.
- Prefer composite decking or fiberglass treads in coastal or high-moisture areas since they resist water, rot, and UV and cut down maintenance.
- Keep wood raised from soil with metal post bases and concrete piers to stop moisture wicking and premature rot.
- Seal exposed end grains and reapply UV resistant finish every one to three years unless you choose composite or fiberglass to largely avoid sealing.
Corrosion‑Resistant Fasteners
Often overlooked, the right fasteners will decide whether your steps last or fail, and you’ll want choices that match the materials and the weather. You should pick hot-dip galvanized or 304 or 316 stainless-steel screws, bolts, and connectors for exterior stairs.
For coastal maintenance you’ll favor 316 stainless for salt spray and for connections to composite, cedar, or redwood treads. Inland, hot-dip galvanized usually works well. Avoid plain zinc plated or interior screws and choose exterior rated structural screws and the correct size bolts for framing.
Use coated or stainless post bases and joist hangers and fasten them with manufacturer specified corrosion resistant nails or bolts. Inspect annually and after storms, and replace any corroded hardware promptly to keep everyone safe and supported.
Protecting Wood Ends
Because cut wood soaks up water fast, you should seal and protect every exposed end right away to keep your steps safe and lasting. You belong here, and caring for your steps is simple whenever you use the right materials and habits. Focus on wood sealing and end grain treatment initially. Then add moisture barriers and UV protection so everything works together.
- Use pressure treated lumber for stringers and posts and coat cut ends with end grain preservative like copper naphthenate.
- Apply brush on epoxy or high quality exterior sealer to all treads and posts right after cutting for fast protection.
- Raise wood on metal post bases or concrete piers and use galvanized or stainless fasteners to prevent wicking.
- Add flashing, slope treads, and recoat preservative every 1 to 3 years.
Plan and Size a Safe Landing
Once you plan a safe landing for your mobile home, start from measuring the total rise from the ground to the door threshold and work from that number so every step feels even and predictable. You’ll divide that rise into a target riser of 7 to 7.75 inches and adjust so all risers match and give a whole number of steps. Provide a landing whenever there are more than two steps or the door swings out. Make the landing at least 36 inches deep and as wide as the door. Keep landing drainage and approach alignment in mind so water runs away and the clear approach stays 36 inches wide. Plan level footings, rot resistant materials, and handrail and guardrail heights that meet code.
| Item | Requirement |
|---|---|
| Riser | 7–7.75 in |
| Landing depth | ≥36 in |
| Approach width | ≥36 in |
| Slope | 1:48 away from door |
Layout and Cut Stringers Correctly
You’ll start measuring the total rise to the threshold, divide onto a 7 to 7.75 inch riser and round to an even number so each step is the same height.
Then transfer the chosen riser and about a 10 to 11 inch tread depth to a PT 2×12 with a framing square, marking the nosing overhang and keeping at least 3.5 inches of material at the narrowest cut.
Finally, test-fit the stringer against a temporary rise, clamp it to the landing to check fit and consistency, and adjust or bevel the top seat so the stringer bears squarely on the ledger before final cuts and installation.
Measure Rise and Run
Start from measuring the total rise from the ground up to the door threshold so you can plan stairs that feel safe and natural to use. You’ll divide that rise per a target riser height of 7 to 7.75 inches, round to an integer, and confirm each riser matches entry thresholds and step markings. Then check ergonomics with the stair rule: 2 risers plus 1 tread about 24 to 25 inches.
- Calculate riser count and mark each riser on your stringer stock.
- Plan tread depth at 10 to 11 inches with 3/4 to 1 inch nosing for comfort.
- Keep at least 3.5 inches of wood where treads sit on a PT 2×12.
- Space stringers 16 to 18 inches on center and add a third over 48 inches.
Dry fit and level the stringers before final fastening so everyone feels secure.
Mark and Transfer Cuts
Lining up your cuts carefully will make the stairs safe and feel right to use, so take your time and work with a plan.
Initially measure the total rise, divide against a 7 to 7.75 inch riser, and round to get equal risers.
Use a framing square and stair gauge to mark 10 to 11 inch treads and the riser height on a pressure treated 2×12.
Clamp the square at the top edge and scribe the repeated step pattern down the board.
Keep at least 3.5 inches of material at the thinnest cut for strength.
Mark top and bottom seat cuts so the stringer seats flush with threshold and footing elevation.
Use a circular saw for straight cuts and a handsaw for notches.
Wear safety gloves and consider a laser layout to keep lines true.
Check Fit and Adjust
Before you cut, dry-fit the stringer to make sure the whole stair will sit right and feel safe underfoot. Lay the stringer against the threshold trim and measure door clearance so the door opens freely. Check the slope; aim for about 30 to 35 degrees. In the event risers look uneven, adjust your marks now.
- Measure total rise and divide by 7 to 7.75 inches so risers match.
- Use the stair rule to pick a 10 to 11 inch tread with a 3/4 to 1 inch nosing.
- Keep at least 3.5 inches of wood at the thin part before cutting.
- Dry-fit all stringers, keep risers equal, and add a third stringer over 48 inches.
Trim or notch bottoms to sit flush on footing and maintain steady, safe steps for everyone.
Build Secure Framing and Footings
You’ll want framing and footings that feel like a firm handshake as someone steps onto your mobile home entry, so measure carefully and build with strength in mind.
Measure total rise, divide using a 7 to 7.75 inch riser, and cut stringers from 2×12 pressure treated lumber. Keep at least 3.5 inches at the thin point for strength. For wider stairs add a third stringer or intermediate support and fasten to a ledger with galvanized bolts and structural screws.
Set posts on precast pier blocks or poured footings beneath the frost line to resist frost heave and soil settlement. Use metal post bases to keep wood off soil and keep utility clearance in mind when locating footings. Check level, slope treads for drainage, and use exterior hardware for load distribution and durability.
Install Treads, Nosings, and Anti-Slip Surfaces
Now that the framing and footings are standing solid, go ahead and make the steps safe underfoot via fitting the treads, nosings, and anti-slip surfaces with care.
You’ll want consistent 3/4 to 1 inch nosing so each tread reaches 10 to 11 inches for secure footing. Slope treads slightly for drainage and seal end grain to keep moisture out. Fasten with exterior screws, countersink, and seal to prevent rot. For cold climates, use removable cleats or coarse grit strips rated for low temps and clear ice often.
- Choose textured composite or grooved PT boards with adhesive backed anti-slip tape on nosings
- Keep nosing overhang consistent to avoid trip points
- Space boards for runoff and seal end grains
- Replace decorative anti slip or cleats annually or whenever worn
Add Handrails and Guardrails to Code Height
Because stairs are where people most often lose their balance, adding handrails and guardrails to the correct height gives you steady support and real peace of mind.
You should install handrails whenever there are four or more risers or whenever local code says so, set 34 to 38 inches from tread nosing to rail top.
Use an ADA grip profile that fits a 1.25 to 2 inch circular grasp and leave 1.5 inches clearance from the wall.
For open sides, top rails usually sit 34 to 42 inches above the walking surface and balusters must stop a 4 inch sphere from passing.
Anchor rails and posts to structural members with galvanized or stainless fasteners, return rail ends, keep surfaces smooth, and inspect yearly for tightness and corrosion for child safety.
Provide Lighting, Drainage, and Surface Slope
Stairs that have solid handrails and guardrails still need good lighting, proper drainage, and the right surface slope to keep you safe every time you use them. You want steps that feel welcoming and steady in any weather. Use warm white lighting at 2700 to 3000K so contrast is gentle and nosings are clear. Position switches or motion sensors top and bottom for easy reach. Also direct roof runoff away and leave a Drainage gap at the bottom tread to stop wicking and rot.
- Aim for 100 lux on each tread with shielded step lights or a wall sconce to avoid glare
- Slope treads about 1:48 toward the front edge to shed water
- Seal end grains, recoat every 1 to 3 years, add grit tape
- Make sure downspouts and grading move water away from steps and foundation
Inspect, Maintain, and Know When to Call a Pro
Keep a close eye on your steps to catch small problems before they become dangerous. Do monthly seasonal inspections for loose fasteners, rot where wood meets soil, and any movement at footings. Tighten exterior-rated screws and perform hardware torque checks so connections stay secure. Check riser height so all risers match within 1/8 inch and stay near 7 to 7.75 inches. Re-cut or shim treads whenever needed to avoid trips.
Test handrails yearly for stiffness and height between 34 and 38 inches, and confirm 1.5-inch finger clearance with galvanized or stainless anchors. Maintain non-slip surfaces, clear debris, reseal end grains every 1 to 3 years, and make certain slight tread slope for runoff. Contact a pro should you see foundation movement, multiple rotten stringers, uneven footings, or any work that alters load-bearing connections.
