Like pulling off a bandage, removing a tile backsplash looks scarier than it really is once you know the right moves. You could worry about cracking tiles, wrecking drywall, or making a huge mess, but you can handle this step via step with a clear plan. As soon as you shut off power, protect your space, and work tile per tile, the project suddenly feels manageable. And once you learn seven simple steps, you’ll see what your wall can become next.
Shut Off Power and Prepare Your Kitchen Workspace
Before you start prying off a single tile, you need to turn your kitchen into a safe, ready-to-work zone. Begin with a full power shutoff at the circuit breaker for every outlet and switch along the backsplash. Then test each one with a plug-in lamp or non-contact voltage tester so you know the power’s really off.
Next, remove the cover plates and either label the wires or take clear photos. You’ll feel grateful for those later.
Now, consider your workspace layout. Make sure you’ve got room to move, set tools, and place a step stool safely.
Put on safety glasses, thick gloves, long sleeves, and sturdy shoes, and keep a shop vacuum close so dust never gets the upper hand.
Protect Counters, Cabinets, and Floors From Dust and Debris
Before you start breaking out tiles, you’ll want to protect every surface around you so your kitchen doesn’t pay the price. You’ll cover countertops fully, shield cabinet faces from dust, and cushion the floors so sharp tile pieces can’t cause damage.
Once you set up this protection initially, you can work with less stress and a lot more confidence.
Cover Countertops Completely
In the middle of all the noise and mess of removing a tile backsplash, the best gift you can give yourself is a fully protected work area. Start by covering every inch of your countertops with heavy-duty cardboard cushioning or 6–8 mil plastic. Let it run a few inches past the edge, then tape it down so it can’t slide. Those tight adhesive barriers keep sharp tile chips, tools, and drips from touching your counters.
Next, tape plastic from the countertop toward the upper cabinets or ceiling to form a simple dust wall, leaving a small flap you can lift to get in and out. Keep a shop vacuum with a HEPA filter nearby and gently vacuum the covered counters often.
Shield Cabinets From Dust
With tile coming off the wall, your beautiful cabinets, counters, and floors can turn into a danger zone fast, so you’ll want to build a strong shield before you pry off a single tile. Start with covering countertops and cabinet faces with cardboard, then add plastic sheeting or a contractor drop cloth. Tape everything carefully so dust can’t sneak in around handles or hinges.
Next, hang plastic from the underside of the upper cabinets down to the counter. Tape the edges to form a containment zone that still allows basic cabinet ventilation. This helps dust settle on the barrier, not on your dishes. As you work, use a shop vacuum with a HEPA filter, and check any recent paint sealing so tape doesn’t peel it.
Protect Floors From Shards
Your cabinets are safe behind their shields, so now your floors need the same kind of care, because tile removal sends sharp shards flying farther than you expect. You’re not just protecting wood or tile. You’re protecting the heart of your kitchen, where people gather and connect.
First, lay thick cardboard or rosin paper on the floor, overlapping each piece at least a few inches. Extend it 3 to 4 feet from the backsplash, then tape edges tight like edge guards so nothing curls up. Add drop barriers through hanging clear plastic from ceiling to floor, sealing it with painter’s tape.
| Layer | Purpose | How it Feels |
|---|---|---|
| Cardboard | Stops impact | Solid and calm |
| Rosin paper | Catches dust | Soft shield |
| Plastic sheeting | Blocks debris | Clear safety net |
| Vacuum zone | Grabs fragments | Constant guardian |
Keep a shop vacuum running and drop broken tiles straight into a shallow bin or contractor bag.
Score Caulk Lines and Remove Edge Trim Pieces
Although this part can feel a little nerve-wracking, scoring the caulk lines and removing edge trim is what protects your counters, walls, and cabinets from damage. You’re not just cutting; you’re caring for your space, focusing on caulk depth and trim preservation so things stay reusable and neat.
Start running a sharp utility knife along the caulk where the backsplash meets the countertop, cabinets, and wall. Take a few light passes until the seal fully breaks. For stubborn caulk, switch to a caulk removal tool or multi-tool and carefully cut deeper without digging into the surface.
Next, score both sides of any metal or wood trim. Gently pry it off with a flat pry bar, label each piece, bag the fasteners, then scrape leftover residue smooth.
Cut Grout and Loosen the First Tile Carefully
Now comes the moment of truth as you cut the grout and free that very initial tile from the wall. You’re not alone here, so take a breath and gear up. Put on your safety gear to begin with, including safety glasses and sturdy gloves, so flying chips and dust don’t catch you off guard.
Start in a low-visibility spot, like behind a stove or at an edge, where any tiny mistake will stay concealed. With a grout saw or oscillating tool, cut along the grout depth around that one tile until the joints are fully separated.
Then slide a stiff putty knife behind the top edge. Tap the handle gently with a hammer and slowly work the blade in small steps, keeping it almost flat to protect the drywall.
Pry Off Remaining Tiles Without Tearing the Drywall
Now that the initial tiles are loose, you’ll keep going through working in small sections so you don’t shock the drywall all at once.
You’ll control the angle of your tool and the amount of force you use, letting gentle, steady pressure lift each tile instead of snapping or ripping the wall surface.
As you move along, you’ll adjust your approach anytime tiles feel stubborn, so the drywall stays intact and repairs stay simple.
Work in Small Sections
Work slowly in small sections so you can pull the tiles off without shredding the drywall behind them. This slower pace lets you see gradual progress and keeps the wall strong for your next backsplash. Start at an edge or behind an appliance so you feel less “on display” and more in control.
First, cut grout lines around a 2 to 3 tile area with a grout saw or oscillating tool. Then slide a 6 in 1 tool or stiff putty knife in with light taps, almost flat to the wall, and gently pry.
| What to Watch | What To Do |
|---|---|
| Small cracks | Pause and adjust |
| Loose drywall paper | Stop and patch |
| Rubbery mastic | Peel carefully |
| Hard thin set | Scrape slowly |
| Tile debris | Clear often |
Control Angle and Force
Guide each tile off the wall like you’re easing a sticker from paper, not prying a board off a fence. Keep your tool almost flat, about a 10 to 15 degree angle, so angle control protects the drywall paper. Tap the end gently and let force modulation do the work instead of muscle.
Work from an exposed edge or behind an appliance. Slide the blade between the tile and wall, then lift only 1 to 2 millimeters at a time. Those tiny moves help you feel the bond release and keep the wall intact.
If a tile fights back, deepen the grout lines, then try again. For rubbery mastic, scrape with a wide putty knife. For thin set, use a flat chisel and tap from edge toward center.
Scrape Adhesive and Repair Any Wall Damage
Although this part can look a little scary, scraping off the old adhesive and fixing the wall is where your backsplash project starts to feel under control again.
Start through sliding a stiff putty knife or 6-in-1 tool almost flat to the wall and work slowly until most adhesive residues are gone and the surface feels flat.
If you run into stubborn thinset, switch to a 3 or 4 inch chisel or an oscillating tool and keep it flat so you don’t gouge the drywall. Small dings are normal.
Handle them with simple drywall patching: spread two thin coats of joint compound, let each dry, then sand with 120 or 150 grit.
For bigger tears or missing drywall, cut back to a stud, replace the section, tape, mud, and sand smooth.
Prep the Surface for Your New Backsplash Installation
In this stage of your project, you’re turning a rough, scraped wall into a clean, solid base that’s truly ready for new tile. Start at trimming any loose grout or caulk along the edges so your new joints bond and seal tightly. Then double check that old thin-set and mastic are scraped and sanded flat for good texture matching.
Next, repair torn drywall paper or gouges with joint compound, then tape, mud, and sand until those patches disappear into the wall. This is where surface sealing matters. Brush on a quality primer so the joint compound and any replaced cement board absorb evenly.
In splash zones, treat moisture barriers as non‑negotiable. Cement board, taped and set flat, supports both tile and later paint selection around your new backsplash.
