Dry mud comes off first, because water only spreads it deeper into the material. Knock off clumps, brush the studs, then wipe the upper with mild soap and water so grit doesn’t grind into the material. A muddy pair can look rough after one wet match, but careful cleaning restores grip, comfort, and shape.
Anyone coming off a game with packed soles, stained laces, or a damp bag can use these steps. The order matters, the drying method matters, and a few small habits keep odor down without beating up the cleats.
Start With Dry Mud Removal
Fresh mud lifts off much easier than dried clay, so the first pass should stay dry. Tap the cleats together outside, then use a soft-bristle brush or cloth to clear loose dirt from the upper, outsole, seams, and tongue.
Clear the studs and soleplate
Packed dirt around the studs can harden into a crust, and the soleplate collects debris that affects traction. Brush between bladed studs, around conical studs, and into the heel area until the grooves look clear.
That dry pass matters because water can turn loose dirt into paste and push grit deeper into mesh, leather, or synthetic film. Nike and adidas both recommend removing dry debris before any wet cleaning, which reduces abrasion and makes the next step easier.
Use a tool that suits the surface
A soft brush handles most uppers, while an old toothbrush gets into stitching and tight ridges. On turf shoes, a nylon brush can lift rubber crumb from the tread without soaking the interior.
For a muddy match-day pair, the fastest fix is simple: tap the studs, brush the outsole, wipe the upper, then move on. Once the loose layer is gone, hand cleaning can do the real work.
Once the first layer is off, the harder-to-reach parts can be cleaned with more care.
Hand-Clean The Upper And Outsole
A bowl of lukewarm water and a few drops of mild soap handle most soccer cleats well. Hand cleaning protects adhesives and shape better than a machine wash, which can be rough on glued soles and delicate collars.
Match the method to the material
Synthetic uppers take a damp microfiber cloth and a soft brush with little fuss. Leather needs less water, gentler pressure, and a final dry wipe so the surface doesn’t feel stiff. Knit and mesh need light brushing and spot cleaning, since heavy scrubbing can pull threads out of alignment.
REI and Nike point to the same basic pattern: remove loose dirt, use mild soap and water, then wipe clean instead of soaking. More water doesn’t mean more cleaning power; it just spreads grime and can leave the inside damp long after the outside looks done.
Work the seams and textured zones
Stitch lines, embossed patterns, and textured strike zones hold dirt like tire treads. Use short strokes and small circles so you lift grime without grinding away finish or surface paint.
White synthetic boots need extra attention around grass marks and dye transfer from socks or laces. A microfiber cloth dampened with diluted soap usually clears those stains without dulling the sheen.
Stains may vanish easily, but separate pieces need their own treatment to avoid hidden damage.
Skip harsh cleaners and bleach. Strong chemicals can cloud finishes, weaken glue, and rough up the upper long before the shoe wears out on the field.
Treat Laces, Insoles, And Studs Separately
Removing laces and insoles exposes the parts that hold the most sweat and odor. It also speeds drying, because each piece releases moisture on its own instead of trapping it inside the boot.
Wash the removable parts on their own
Laces clean well in soapy water with a quick rub between your hands. Insoles need a light wipe or a gentle rinse, then a full air-dry before they go back in.
The interior matters as much as the outside. A damp sockliner or tongue can hold bacteria-fed odor even when the upper looks spotless, and that smell comes back fast once the cleats warm up again.
Scrub the outsole details with care
Academy Sports + Outdoors and adidas both call out studs and outsole edges as debris traps. A toothbrush or narrow nylon brush works well around the base, where mud and turf fill can stick under the arch and between ridges.
That matters on firm-ground cleats and turf models alike. Conical studs pack clay in the gaps, while turf shoes collect rubber crumb that hides in the tread and throws off balance.
Different sole designs trap different debris, so drying becomes the next safeguard against misshaping.
Dry Them Slowly Without Warping The Shape
Air-drying at room temperature protects the materials far better than heat does. Dryers, radiators, direct sun, and hot vents can shrink leather, crack synthetic films, and soften adhesives that hold the sole together.
Use paper to pull out moisture
Stuff the inside with newspaper or plain absorbent paper so it draws water from the lining and helps the boot hold its form. Replace the paper when it turns damp, because wet stuffing stops pulling moisture.
Let air move around the cleats and keep heat away. Nike and adidas both advise natural drying, and REI points to room-temperature air as the safer path for glued footwear with molded shapes.
Leave space for airflow
Do not pack the shoes tightly in a pile or seal them in a bag while they are still damp. Air circulation clears moisture from the insole, heel cup, and tongue much faster than a closed space can.
Leather pairs may also need a small amount of conditioner after they dry fully, especially around flex points. That helps reduce stiffness after cleaning and keeps the upper from feeling brittle.
A careful finish after drying helps those shoes stay fresh and resilient between sessions.
Prevent Odor And Material Damage Between Uses
The easiest cleaning job starts right after the final whistle. Mud that dries in a bag turns into a harder, rougher layer, and sweat left in the lining feeds the smell that lingers for days.
Clean soon after play
Fresh dirt wipes away with a cloth, while dried residue needs more brushing and more rubbing. A short clean right after use saves the upper finish and keeps the interior from soaking in grime.
University of Nebraska-Lincoln Extension and sports-footwear care advice point to the same mechanism: trapped moisture encourages microbial growth, and that growth drives odor. A dry insole and a ventilated bag do more for smell control than masking scents ever will.
Use only products the maker allows
Some modern synthetics tolerate a light protectant spray, while others do not. Check the care label or product notes before adding anything, because the wrong spray can change texture or leave residue on the strike zone.
That protection only lasts if the same habits continue after every match.
After each session, take out the insoles and let the cleats breathe. That habit does more for odor control than any quick wipe through a damp bag.
Build A Simple Routine After Every Match
A five-minute routine keeps soccer cleats ready for the next session and saves a longer scrub later. Start with dry mud removal, move to a mild soap wipe, then separate the removable parts and leave everything to dry.
Use the same sequence each time
Tap the soles, brush the outsole, wipe the upper, pull out the insoles, and untie the laces. That order keeps dirt from moving from the outside back into the lining.
- Tap first Knock loose clumps from the studs before any water touches the shoe.
- Wipe next Use a damp cloth with mild soap on the upper and outsole.
- Separate parts Remove laces and insoles so each piece dries on its own.
- Set to dry Leave the pair in moving air at room temperature.
- Check damage Look at stitching, sole edges, and stud wear as you clean.
Watch the parts that wear out early
Stud edges, heel counters, and seam lines tell you a lot about the shoe’s condition. Small cracks or loose stitching show up early if you inspect the pair while the dirt is still off.
Once the cleats are fully dry, store them in a cool, dry place instead of a sealed sports bag. That last step keeps the shape stable and makes the next cleanup shorter, which is the whole point of a good routine.
Consistency turns cleanup into a habit, leaving the boots ready for whatever comes next.
What To Remember
The cleanest cleats come from the gentlest sequence: dry mud off, mild soap on, separate parts out, and heat left out of the process. Do that after the match, and your grip, comfort, and materials all last longer.
FAQ
Can you put soccer cleats in the washing machine?
Hand cleaning is safer for most cleats, especially leather, knit, laceless, or heavily glued pairs. A machine wash can stress adhesives, rough up finishes, and distort the shape, so use it only when the maker clearly allows it.
How do you dry soccer cleats after cleaning them?
Air-dry them at room temperature, away from dryers, heaters, radiators, and direct sun. Stuff the inside with newspaper or another absorbent paper, then replace it once it gets damp so the moisture keeps moving out.
What is the best way to get mud out of cleats?
Let the mud dry, tap the studs together, and brush off the loose debris before any water touches the shoe. A soft-bristle brush or old toothbrush reaches the soleplate, seams, and stud gaps without grinding grit into the material.
Should you remove insoles and laces before cleaning cleats?
Yes, removing them makes cleaning easier and drying faster. Laces can be washed in soapy water, and insoles dry better on their own, which helps cut odor and keeps moisture from hiding inside the boot.
How do you clean white soccer cleats without damaging them?
Use a microfiber cloth with diluted mild soap, then spot clean the stained areas instead of scrubbing hard. Keep the surface only lightly wet, because heavy water and abrasive pads can dull the finish and leave marks.
How soon should you clean cleats after a match?
Right after use works best, before mud and sweat dry into the upper and outsole. A quick brush and wipe takes less time than scraping hardened residue later, and it helps the inside dry before odor builds.